Culture Study Podcast - January 08, 2025


How Did Thrifting Get So Bad?


Episode Stats


Length

52 minutes

Words per minute

196.02

Word count

10,265

Sentence count

233

Harmful content

Misogyny

6

sentences flagged

Toxicity

4

sentences flagged

Hate speech

7

sentences flagged


Transcript

Transcript generated with Whisper (turbo).
Misogyny classifications generated with MilaNLProc/bert-base-uncased-ear-misogyny .
Toxicity classifications generated with s-nlp/roberta_toxicity_classifier .
Hate speech classifications generated with facebook/roberta-hate-speech-dynabench-r4-target .
00:00:00.880 Hi, it's Anne, coming to you with an update on the shows we're working on.
00:00:04.980 And guess what? We need your questions for all of these.
00:00:08.580 I have regretfully abandoned my dream of a Paul Mescal episode,
00:00:12.940 and we're broadening it out to the general Irishification of pop culture.
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00:02:21.800 What is your primary sense memory of thrifting?
00:02:25.820 I think it's definitely, I would say touch. I probably started thrifting in the late aughts.
00:02:32.520 I was in my team. I'm a millennial, so I was a teenager. And I just remember going through the
00:02:37.120 racks and touching everything. And that was like such a unique experience because I feel like you
00:02:41.000 don't know what you're going to find. So touching things was like the primary way that something
00:02:44.860 stood out whether it was like a soft or warm sweater or jeans that felt like really thick
00:02:50.040 denim um that was like a big thing for me for sure and I still think when I'm thrifting that's
00:02:55.240 the primary I mean you can see some of that by visuals now especially with the kinds of things
00:02:59.920 that are in thrift stores but it's still at the end of the day like I really don't feel like I
00:03:03.260 know what I'm looking for until I touch it this is the culture study podcast and I'm Anne Helen
00:03:13.540 Peterson. And I'm Kelsey Blamis. I'm a senior reporter with Business Insider. What was your
00:03:18.380 primary thrift store when you're growing up? Oh, it was a Goodwill. I grew up in the suburbs of
00:03:22.640 Chicago, and it was a Goodwill 10 minutes from my parents' house. And it was great. Like, I just
00:03:28.800 have such positive memories of leaving there with always leaving there with something that I loved.
00:03:34.580 And it's just, yeah. Mine was Goodwill in my hometown. And then in my college town,
00:03:39.360 there were like four thrift stores just like within walking distance in the little downtown
00:03:45.440 that were always filled with wonders and I think that like for me a lot of the memory of it was
00:03:51.560 like thick polyesters of like from the 1970s and like things that were probably a kind of
00:03:58.340 approximating almost like a Chanel jacket but like that were at the thrift store and lots of like
00:04:04.960 moomoo's because when i think about a thrift like when i was first accessing thrift stores in the
00:04:11.420 90s a lot of what was arriving there were clothes from the 80s and the 70s and then so you were
00:04:18.400 trying to find something at least like at a specific point in time for me when i was like
00:04:24.040 in the mid 90s you're trying to find stuff like old flannels first you raided your dad's closet
00:04:29.300 and then you went to goodwill and you got all the old flannels that were there or oh yeah like
00:04:34.880 cool uh 70s style skirts or the other thing that we only would wear as jokes would be like 80s
00:04:41.800 prom dresses which were always in abundance oh yeah and then when I was in college I found like
00:04:47.280 one year for a pop stars party I was Tiffany from the 1980s and I found like an outfit that I swear
00:04:52.980 would go for a thousand dollars now that was like peg-legged trousers with stirrups and suspenders
00:05:01.120 and then like a pink bodysuit, mock neck, and then a pink blossom hat, like Blossom, the TV
00:05:07.180 character. Yeah. So I have so many really fond memories of finding everyday clothes, costume
00:05:13.620 clothes, all sorts of things. And I think the reason we want to do this episode is because a
00:05:18.440 lot of people have similar memories and feel that the process of thrifting has changed pretty
00:05:25.140 profoundly over the course of, let's say like five, 10 years. What do you think? What's the
00:05:29.780 time frame in your mind? Yeah, I would say 10 to 15. Maybe it would go back. I think five the
00:05:37.000 past five years. It's been pretty rapid. Like the popularity of thrifting has increased so much in
00:05:42.160 the past five years that it's it's basically mainstream, especially for Gen Z, but just
00:05:47.380 generally speaking. Yeah. And yeah, I mean, I have the same kind of memories of, you know,
00:05:52.740 a flannel. It's funny you say flannel. Some of the oldest things in my closet are flannels that
00:05:55.600 I've had since I was like 14 that I thrifted um but yeah it has it has really changed and
00:06:02.020 the popularity has exploded is the main thing but also just the way that what new clothes are on the
00:06:07.840 market has also changed pretty dramatically in the past like 15 to 20 years so I think it kind
00:06:12.340 of followed that naturally um as far as like the growth of fast fashion specifically yeah a lot of
00:06:17.760 the things that I used to find at thrift stores were actually handmade yeah wow and that that
00:06:23.740 probably has something to do with where i grew up which was a pretty rural place but that stuff was
00:06:28.680 made to last right oh yeah but i was also always thrilled to find like a gap sweatshirt for ten
00:06:34.820 dollars or something like that yeah what are the ways if we can kind of like put into buckets the
00:06:40.840 ways that thrifting has become more popular and gotten worse at the same time yeah so i i guess
00:06:48.080 it's good to define the difference between thrifting and i guess how you define thrifting
00:06:53.320 Right. So I think of thrifting as going to this traditional thrift store where people dump like a box full of clothes they're just trying to get rid of.
00:07:01.980 That's like a Goodwill or Salvation Army. And then when you go there as a shopper, you kind of are looking through these like really broad categories like women's tops or men's jeans.
00:07:11.080 It's like, OK, what does that mean? It could be anything. It could be anything, any size.
00:07:15.660 But today, a lot of especially Gen Z, when they say thrifting, they just mean buying something secondhand, which is so interesting to me.
00:07:22.180 It's so interesting to me. 0.81
00:07:24.680 Because it's such a different experience, right?
00:07:26.780 Like I remember being in college and looking for high-waisted vintage Levi's.
00:07:30.820 And that was like such, that was such a, like a hunt.
00:07:33.260 You know, you'd go to the thrift store, you'd look through everyone in the rack,
00:07:36.260 you'd try a bunch on, none of them were the perfect fit.
00:07:38.420 It was like difficult.
00:07:39.580 And now, you know, I can find vintage Levi's online in my size
00:07:43.100 and the exact cut and style I want with just a quick Google search.
00:07:45.860 And I'm paying more than if I found them at the thrift store,
00:07:48.220 but I can find them very easily.
00:07:50.040 So that to me is not thrifting.
00:07:52.180 at least in the traditional sense that I think of it.
00:07:55.480 So I think there has been a huge growth in secondhand and thrifting at thrift stores.
00:08:00.880 Absolutely.
00:08:01.540 But part of the reason that thrifting at traditional what I think of traditionally as thrift stores has gotten worse is because of how big the secondhand market has gotten.
00:08:10.120 And that's, you know, sites like Poshmark and and ThredUp and Depop and the RealReal.
00:08:16.020 and also just like people, individuals who are just like selling, you know, not necessarily
00:08:20.580 resellers who are making a business out of it, but they just are like, I don't need these boots
00:08:24.300 anymore. And if I sell them, I'll have money to buy other foods. Yeah. So secondhand generally
00:08:29.280 has gotten huge. And because of that, the traditional thrift store experience has gotten
00:08:33.740 a little bit worse for shoppers. So it's a supply problem in two different ways then, right? Supply
00:08:40.280 because there's less supply because people are going to sell their items at the secondhand market
00:08:45.400 instead of just donating and then it's supply in terms of the quality of the items that are being
00:08:52.200 donated right and especially you know a lot of people might still drop off their clothes at
00:08:57.920 goodwill if they're like lower quality clothes but if you have something that's like higher quality
00:09:02.060 you can sell it on facebook marketplace to like a neighbor very easily yeah and make a little bit
00:09:07.160 of money off of it so not only are people buying the nice stuff up from thrift stores to then
00:09:12.540 resell it less night stuff is going to thrift stores specifically the stuff that is making it
00:09:16.820 to thrift stores is the stuff that's like cheaper and people don't think they're really going to
00:09:20.240 make money reselling yeah yeah yeah like they know that if you brought that to say buffalo exchange
00:09:27.100 that they would be like uh we'll give you a dollar for this yeah exactly or they won't even take it
00:09:33.540 and yeah that's even become a problem like my uh my brother was just saying he tried to drop off a
00:09:38.880 bunch of clothes at goodwill and they were like we don't take anything after 11 a.m like this just
00:09:42.900 happened like two weeks ago because they just had to make a cutoff because they were getting so much
00:09:46.440 clothes dropped off there so you know he couldn't even get rid of his clothes at a donation center
00:09:52.120 which was like a very confusing experience um what's the name of that site wait i'm blanking
00:09:57.140 on it the site where they send you like a bag and then you put all your clothes in the bag
00:10:01.440 and then they price it and tell you how much they priced it and then they're like you can either 0.98
00:10:06.000 accept this or go fuck yourself yes i know i can't think of the name right now thread up 0.99
00:10:12.200 thread up thread up yeah that's yeah the hard thing about these places is that people are 1.00
00:10:20.740 desperate to do something with their clothes and this seems like a good idea but i also think
00:10:26.700 people like have this new idea and it has to like it's all connected to even like the idea that you
00:10:31.800 should be monetizing your hobbies too that like that you should always be making money off of
00:10:37.480 things that you have in your possession in some way yeah definitely that if somehow you that
00:10:43.060 there's like a i don't know what there's it says something negative about your productivity if
00:10:47.540 you're not somehow maximizing the value of your totally yeah like if you just give things away
00:10:52.300 even on facebook like and i i like i gave a dress that i had bought and never wore it never fit me
00:11:00.920 quite right but it fit my friend perfectly i was like it's yours and there was a little part of me
00:11:06.660 that was like oh you should have asked her for 20 this is my friend like just give her the dress
00:11:13.720 yeah yeah it's like 20 that's not you don't need who cares no i totally feel that though and i i
00:11:22.180 feel that it's funny because it is an exchange of like time too because i i instead of donating
00:11:27.020 something i would like i should sell this thing but then i'm like well what kind of like time
00:11:30.480 an effort on my part is going to take to sell it if I donate it maybe someone will end up with it
00:11:34.720 who needs it more than if I try to sell it to somebody so so I think we should also talk a
00:11:41.320 little bit about who was thrifting 20 years ago compared to now like who is thrifting for
00:11:47.040 because I think that's something that like there are these nebulous ideas that like you know if
00:11:53.280 you donate clothes it's for people who can't afford other clothes like and I don't think
00:11:57.520 that's necessarily the case like how do you work through all of this in your mind totally one way
00:12:02.120 to think about it is um and i had a professor who studies uh the resale market and thrifting
00:12:08.060 describe this to me that she thinks of thrift shoppers um broadly in two categories which is
00:12:13.640 need-based shoppers and trend-based shoppers and so need-based shoppers just what it sounds like
00:12:19.600 people who maybe need something it's out of their budget they go to the thrift store to find a more
00:12:24.280 affordable option. And then there's trend based shoppers, which I think you're getting more into
00:12:30.040 these like trendy Gen Z thrifters who are scanning for something really special. They're just looking
00:12:35.480 for something that's really on trend or really unique. The proportion of trend based shoppers
00:12:41.120 has exploded. You know, 15 years ago, the majority of people at a thrift store would have been
00:12:46.040 considered need based. And now that's almost inverted, like and it's expected to get more
00:12:51.480 balanced out as well, just as thrifting continues to grow in popularity. So the problem with that,
00:12:57.760 I guess, is that, and, you know, I should, I should specify needs-based shoppers don't
00:13:01.320 necessarily need to buy all of their clothes at a thrift store, but maybe they need a new dress or
00:13:05.440 a new suit for a job interview, something that's just like a big purchase item. And a thrift store
00:13:10.160 is traditionally a really good option for that. Now it's, it's not necessarily because of these
00:13:16.060 trend-based shoppers and, and resellers. So people who are selling, you know, specifically
00:13:21.080 going to thrift stores to find clothes to sell to other people as a side gig yeah um they're kind
00:13:25.720 of picking over like the highest quality goods at the thrift store and so it leaves very little
00:13:32.180 for need-based shoppers and to the point where you know it might be cheaper easier more accessible
00:13:37.760 to just buy like a fast fashion version like for a need-based shopper yeah like go to walmart
00:13:42.980 and then you get at least have more choices and a size that works for you and a color that you like
00:13:48.340 and all that yeah yeah yeah absolutely like it's kind of amazing the the level of like even like
00:13:53.400 looking at amazon even just like yeah what you can buy at the price points and and you know they're
00:13:58.100 not the highest quality but they might serve your purpose and you know in the short term um the
00:14:03.060 problem with that is that those clothes don't last very long and so there's this like old economics
00:14:06.660 theory called the boots theory which is the idea that you know lower income folks have to buy
00:14:11.640 cheaper boots which don't last as long so to replace them more often so like ultimately it
00:14:15.880 maybe like a worse, like worse financially for them. But short term, they have to buy the more
00:14:19.860 affordable options. So I think it is becoming a bit of like a little bit of a problem, just in a
00:14:26.180 sense that like needs based shoppers can't get those higher quality goods at the thrift store
00:14:30.240 anymore. And I don't know if there's like a great solution for that. I mean, as long as like
00:14:33.900 vintage is growing and resellers are growing, that that problem seems like that's going to keep
00:14:38.040 occurring, compounded by the fact that there's less quality goods to begin with in thrift stores
00:14:42.040 than there were 15 years ago right and it's not like you can like legislate like you have to show
00:14:46.800 a certain income to be able to shop at goodwill right yeah goodwill doesn't want that either no
00:14:52.180 so just so that we also have like some terms defined to start with when we think about thrifting
00:14:57.420 there is the national and local thrift stores that are dealing primarily with donations
00:15:04.100 there's also like vintage shops which are like a different sort of thrifting right like a vintage
00:15:11.920 shop is like much more curated, much more expensive in my experience. Yes. And then
00:15:18.480 Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Poshmark, ThredUp, all secondary market stuff. And then, you know,
00:15:25.820 the other thing that I've seen more and more of and you talk about in your piece are companies
00:15:29.680 that are hosting resale markets on their sites. So I was just looking at Patagonia. They have
00:15:36.900 like a really robust one of what they call worn wear i know anthropology has one lots of other
00:15:42.220 places how do those places work yeah it's interesting i mean so there used to be not
00:15:48.220 necessarily resale but i mean like out in malls used to be like products that couldn't sell right
00:15:52.860 or they just had like too much of them yeah um and i think some brands are realizing they can
00:15:57.880 like capitalize on this whole resale trend by kind of hosting their own reselling yes but then also
00:16:03.200 So just like moving product, that's like extra product, but it's like cheaper.
00:16:06.980 It's in the brand's best interest to resell their own products on their site because they
00:16:10.360 realize people are going to sell them anyways.
00:16:12.220 So like, why don't we sell them associated more closely with our brand to get people
00:16:16.640 into our brand?
00:16:18.160 It's also an entry point.
00:16:19.540 Like if you're reselling, I think there was a while where brands thought the resale market
00:16:23.320 was going to take away from people buying new clothes.
00:16:26.100 And I think what they realize is that maybe someone buys their first item from a more
00:16:29.980 expensive brand in the resale market but then they're now interested and invested in that brand
00:16:33.960 so it may make them a customer of the new product in the future as well so it is in the brands in
00:16:39.520 many cases it is in a brand's best interest to to host the resale of their own products on their
00:16:43.800 site which is interesting also allows them to brand themselves as sustainable which yeah like
00:16:48.820 yes but also it helps make you money yeah absolutely definitely a bonus i think like
00:16:55.140 specifically with Patagonia that obviously feeds so directly into their environmental branding and
00:17:00.860 practices. Yeah, that's a huge part of it. Yeah, we have to get into the questions now before we
00:17:06.240 answer all the questions just in our discussion. Okay, let's start with some firsthand knowledge
00:17:11.180 from a listener who wants to remain anonymous. Not a question, but I work for one of the big
00:17:16.400 national thrift stores. And it's estimated that 40% of purchases are made by resellers,
00:17:21.400 many of whom do reselling as their main gig. At some locations, it's estimated that the
00:17:26.200 percentage is more like 90%. It's such an interesting microcosm of current late-stage
00:17:31.560 capitalism where overconsumption meets the rolling back of workers' rights, pushing more people to
00:17:37.240 make ends meet through the gig economy. What do you make of this? I mean, I think there's
00:17:42.880 definitely a lot of truth to that. It's kind of this horrible cycle, like people needing
00:17:48.820 to rely on the gig economy and having a side gig just like pay their bills yeah but then that's
00:17:55.280 like negatively impacting what needs-based shoppers at the thrift store have access to it is this like
00:18:00.420 i mean then certainly there's other there's other factors like sure the gig economy is part of it
00:18:05.480 but the resale market's also growing just i think in part because new clothes the quality of new
00:18:10.380 clothes has declined i mean i listened to your uh this podcast the culture study episode with
00:18:14.640 amanda mall and it goes all into that but just it's harder to find high quality brand new clothes
00:18:19.960 so that's part of the reason why the resale market has gotten more popular and then also just like
00:18:24.200 it's trendy right now will it be always i'm not sure but right now with gen z they really value
00:18:29.200 unique goods like unique like you they don't they're not interested in uniformity like
00:18:33.800 millennials were 20 years ago like where they only shopped at like evercrombie and fitch
00:18:37.760 how dare you i know i was there i'm part of this i know here i was just desperate for like
00:18:46.740 my mossimo t-shirt and my umbro shorts even though i didn't play soccer like the absolute
00:18:52.340 obsession with uniformity uh yeah how do they like where do they keep all the stuff do they
00:18:58.200 just keep it in their closets like what is it how does a reseller do this have you seen people
00:19:03.160 doing it in action like yeah you know i i haven't like firsthand um but it is a great question i i
00:19:10.080 imagine it's like any other like i i don't know i guess i imagine it like a hobby right like you
00:19:15.620 have like your space where all your stuff goes for that thing yeah so there's just like i i can
00:19:20.900 i can only imagine like some of these resellers on like depop or whatever so many they have so
00:19:26.420 many things listed and you're just like man they are they must be these thrift store trips they're
00:19:30.740 making to find these products are just so in depth and they they pick up so many different
00:19:35.080 things and yeah it's just like a pile of it a room at their house like I don't know it's pretty
00:19:39.160 amazing yeah are they mostly do you think looking for those unique things or are they looking for
00:19:44.160 brands because one thing I've noticed with Poshmark in particular is that it's easy to
00:19:49.760 sell something if it's a major brand because people can use that keyword to search that thing
00:19:54.080 it's much harder to sell something if it's just like a cute top from like a random boutique that
00:20:01.240 has a label that people like don't know that that name do you know what I mean yeah definitely
00:20:06.680 there I mean resellers for sure especially like it's it's difficult to sort through stuff at a
00:20:11.660 thrift store just as like a regular shopper and I think resellers specifically are just
00:20:15.400 it's like this speed search through the tags and if it's a recognizable brand name at all
00:20:20.820 I think that it's viewed as sellable because somebody is going to be searching for that brand name.
00:20:26.600 And so it's a way to stand out.
00:20:27.960 I mean, it's hard to find products you're looking for without a brand name.
00:20:33.380 Yeah.
00:20:33.500 Honestly, like I it's like if you search something specific on Depop, the results can be, you know, if you search like black sweater, the results can be so varied.
00:20:41.700 Yeah.
00:20:41.980 But if I like know I'm looking from a black sweater from this specific brand, it's just going to show up better.
00:20:47.520 So, yeah, searching for tags is a is a huge thing for resellers.
00:20:52.640 Yeah, that and, you know, that's the utility of something like Poshmark to me is when I lose or ruin something that I love.
00:20:59.140 Like I just lost this hat from Madewell that I've worn every day during winter for the last two years.
00:21:06.720 And I immediately went on and searched like Madewell stocking cap to find the exact one from two years ago.
00:21:12.660 And there was only one listed and it was for more than I paid originally.
00:21:16.560 but I was like but this is my favorite hat so I bought it but and that was possible because of a
00:21:22.640 site like Poshmark or I mean eBay would have done that before but I probably never would have been
00:21:27.040 like I would have been forced to go outside my comfort zone if I was just searching for a new
00:21:32.980 hat and didn't have that ability oh yeah absolutely I also find like sometimes I'm interested in a
00:21:38.620 brand like I've checked it out online but it's expensive I'm like well maybe this I'm not gonna
00:21:42.620 to like this it's not gonna be good quality and resellers are a good way to like try out a brand
00:21:46.740 for the first time like search that specific expensive um like sweater or like dress brand
00:21:53.300 you're curious about and find just a cheaper version of it and then yeah it's like you know
00:21:58.040 maybe then you know oh i'm actually a fan of this brand and then maybe you'll buy it new so again
00:22:02.220 you know good for the good for the brand too yeah i also like i think sometimes people
00:22:07.780 disparage resellers but it's actually a lot of work right oh yeah like the the work that someone
00:22:14.880 running a vintage shop is doing to find these items to launder them to maybe like alter them
00:22:21.380 in some way to display them in a way that makes them attractive to curate them is not like i think
00:22:29.260 it's different when you have an online on seller but like you have to catalog all of this clothing
00:22:34.500 you have to make an article of clothing look good online without professional models like that's
00:22:40.300 hard yeah it is it's definitely it's it's a ton of work it's like it's not a it's not like a casual
00:22:45.960 side gig like if people are really doing this at us at any significant scale um it's a huge time
00:22:51.300 investment yeah but it's interesting i do feel like the curated vintage sellers which you mentioned
00:22:56.140 earlier um i do think that's becoming very popular a professor who a fashion professor whose expertise
00:23:04.280 is in resale, told me that her students who thrift most of their clothes prefer to go to these like
00:23:10.240 curated vintage sellers in person. This is in L.A. There's a lot. There's a lot of them here and
00:23:16.360 they're very different. And so what's interesting is you if you have one, you know, that you like
00:23:20.960 it has a very specific point of view. Like I know what at specific stores, I know what brands that
00:23:26.500 reseller is looking for and what brands that they're most likely to have. So that's a huge
00:23:30.700 value too because there are specific brands that some of us are drawn to you know so if you know
00:23:35.120 that one reseller has those things that's very valuable and the resellers know that so a lot of
00:23:39.040 them do like to focus on specific brands for that reason yeah totally or like you know a vintage
00:23:43.680 shop that is much more into like 50s and 60s style than like 70s and 80s style like all of
00:23:50.040 those things or even you know I remember from when I was growing up it was much more like oh you go to
00:23:54.800 the value village or the the goodwill and like the rich neighborhood but i feel like that's not
00:24:00.920 a strategy that works as effectively anymore yeah good question i'm not sure i do know i know you
00:24:06.400 mentioned earlier you grew up in like a rural place and i and i still think that that like
00:24:10.740 traditional thrift stores are better in rural places because i think there are less of these
00:24:15.980 like trendy 20 something resellers like actively sorting through those racks like i still think
00:24:22.140 you can find um and i've been told that by some real like one reseller i talked to said when she
00:24:26.200 visits her grandma in wisconsin she heads up every thrift store like in driving distance and
00:24:30.280 she finds the best stuff and then she brings it back to la and sells it to people here um so i do
00:24:34.840 think that there is still some truth to that yeah no this makes total sense so we have i live on an
00:24:40.360 island of 900 people and every year there is a massive rummage sale at the church it's on fourth
00:24:46.740 the july weekend and it is a like i cannot describe like there is a ceremonial rope drop
00:24:54.440 like everything is just donated and then the church sells things for very very cheap it's like
00:25:00.880 someone comes and looks at your stuff and it's like i don't know 10 bucks for like seven items
00:25:05.780 in your arms right because all of it just goes straight to the church and the programs that it
00:25:10.020 puts on and they now have a shuttle that runs from the ferry dock to the church because all of
00:25:19.820 these like 20 something kids are coming from the mainland to raid specifically there's like one
00:25:28.860 part of it where they put the like they put they put like there's a word that they use for it's
00:25:34.600 like high fashion or like designer brands or something like that. So it's old. We are what's
00:25:41.740 called a NORC, a naturally occurring retirement community. It means that the percentage of older 0.99
00:25:47.840 people like of retirement age is very high, even though it's not like a specifically designated
00:25:53.440 retirement community. So every year there are a lot of people who are cleaning out closets and
00:25:58.120 there are beautiful things and weird things and cool things. And now it has become like a
00:26:04.560 destination that people. Wow. That is, that totally makes sense. Yeah. Yeah. And it really
00:26:11.560 reminds me, I know in LA too, which is not something I personally as a shopper have been
00:26:16.380 able to capitalize on, but I've, I know the estate sales here are insane. Yeah. I found that world
00:26:23.160 very difficult to try to like break into as a shopper. I think it takes a lot of like paying
00:26:27.540 attention and effort and showing up early in the morning and I'm not a morning person. So
00:26:31.380 I don't know if I if I have like the the stamina for it. But I know people find resellers and just
00:26:38.660 like fashion girlies find insane things at the estate sales in L.A. and I'm sure other places. 0.55
00:26:44.260 But but and that's the thing is it's not as productive as going to a thrift store. So like
00:26:51.600 going to a thrift store, you can just like do these huge hauls, whereas an estate sale, you have
00:26:55.860 to be like, OK, I have to sort through the estate sales. I have to somehow discern if this is an
00:27:00.520 estate sale that is going to be worth my time. I have to drive there. I might have to wait. I might
00:27:04.400 have to bid on things, all sorts of things like that. Like it is it's much more of a slow process.
00:27:10.960 And so I think some people, especially in our current moment, when you want to buy everything
00:27:15.500 immediately online, can't be bothered. Yeah, absolutely. I do think that is the benefit of
00:27:20.280 like it's like I say traditional thrifting has gotten worse, but buying secondhand in many ways
00:27:25.460 has never been easier because there are other people who will do that that monotonous estate
00:27:30.140 seltzer ends and sell to me at at a higher rate yeah but so you know there's there's like obviously
00:27:35.200 trade-offs but in that is accessible now like that that special product from that estate sale
00:27:39.780 might be accessible to someone who doesn't have the you know who's not going to go look for it
00:27:43.900 themselves okay our next question is about the donations and where they're going this comes from
00:27:50.920 Megan. Why have prices at thrift stores increased so much since the pandemic, despite huge increases
00:27:57.780 in donations? I run a thrift store for arts and crafts supplies in Colorado, and we're inundated
00:28:03.360 with donations, literally flooded every day. And I know other shops in my area are in the same boat,
00:28:09.780 but they keep raising prices, which seems silly given the supply and the demand. We're doing
00:28:16.120 better than ever by selling things at low prices so they move quickly and then we can sell more
00:28:20.860 things. Are other places just trashing stuff? Do they not have enough staff to keep up?
00:28:27.440 What is going on? As an aside, we pay decent wages, while many places I know use a lot of
00:28:33.340 volunteer hours or folks who are doing court-mandated service. Maybe that's the issue.
00:28:40.020 Paying people to process donations costs more, so it's easier to just dump stuff.
00:28:44.880 What do you think's going on here?
00:28:45.940 I think there's several reasons why prices are going up at thrift stores.
00:28:50.740 The question definitely gets that part of it, which is just that thrift stores need more people to go through the amount of donations that are being dropped off.
00:28:58.120 I mean, you see these like it's hard to even imagine like how much stuff gets like just dropped off at Goodwills.
00:29:05.840 Clothing, furniture like this is there are similar issues going on in the furniture space in this regard.
00:29:11.500 you can see fast fashion hauls on TikTok where they're just trying on all these things that
00:29:16.540 cost literally dollars and if they don't fit you're not gonna many people don't take the
00:29:21.560 time to return those items they drop them off in boxes at thrift stores and that it requires
00:29:26.080 it requires human humans to like look at it is this sellable where do we put it like if there
00:29:31.620 is still a human eye that's needed to go through all those donations so that's one thing that's
00:29:36.580 one reason why prices are increasing the other thing is that thrift stores are know what they
00:29:40.740 have they know people will pay they're definitely getting just as thrifting has gotten trendier
00:29:44.700 second hand has gotten trendier they know that they have something people will pay a little bit
00:29:48.380 more for yeah and they so they raise the price a little bit and it's easy to be like critical of
00:29:53.480 that but at the end of the day a lot of that stuff is going to be bought by a reseller and sold for
00:29:59.060 significantly more than they're selling it for even if you know they're selling something for
00:30:03.020 twenty dollars that they used to sell for eight um so that is part of it too they just know the
00:30:08.380 demand is there um and also the other side of it is just like regular rising costs like rising rent
00:30:13.280 and wages like thrift stores have to keep up with that as well yeah and it also matters if they're
00:30:17.820 for-profit or non-profit right so like something a lot of people like value village here in the
00:30:22.800 northwest is like a for-profit enterprise right so they're going to charge more if they can make
00:30:26.900 more yeah i do think the labor component of this question is something that a lot of people don't
00:30:34.120 think about a ton, which as this question writer points out, a lot of places rely on either
00:30:40.740 volunteer labor or mandated labor or disabled labor, which you pay a whole lot less when you
00:30:48.240 are paying people who are disabled and who are working with the organization through the disability
00:30:54.120 office. And I think there have actually been a lot of lawsuits and a lot of agitation to try
00:30:58.480 and raise that wage because it's incredibly low but if you want to pay minimum wage in
00:31:06.020 most states you're going to have to charge more for the items even if you're getting a large
00:31:12.980 influx of items so if you need the labor you have to pay it yeah absolutely and i think you know what
00:31:19.600 what makes something expensive is all relative um to like i think part of the reason why we think
00:31:25.060 like $20 for a nice sweater is expensive to thrift stores because it used to be cheap.
00:31:29.220 Yeah. Also, because there's so many new goods that are cheap. I swear for less than that.
00:31:34.160 Yeah. Like in a fast fashion site. So. Right. Right. That I mean, one thing is like,
00:31:38.200 if you are clinging to your memory of finding a five dollar an eight, I don't even think you
00:31:43.520 could get a five dollar like an eight dollar flannel. Now that that would be sixteen dollars,
00:31:48.680 right like just the way that money works and then also that flannel is worth more than the
00:31:57.000 $16 flannel that you would get at Old Navy say right yeah absolutely like the materials are
00:32:02.900 actually worth more so some of it is that and there's just this like I think we have such an
00:32:08.480 affliction with like obsessive deal mongering like that a thrift store has to be like everything
00:32:16.480 should be one dollar and like if you want everything to be one dollar you can go to the
00:32:19.900 dollar store and participate in that market of exploitation yeah yeah absolutely it's a great
00:32:26.160 point i mean the the primary reason to thrift is not necessarily to spend the lowest amount of money
00:32:32.320 yeah um and maybe it was it or and for some people maybe it still is but you can often find
00:32:38.280 something cheaper again if you don't care about the quality new now um but that's maybe not the
00:32:44.280 primary reason to thrift i mean there's i mean sustainability reasons um just like higher quality
00:32:49.020 goods like you said that you can still find yeah do you think that what you know what is the pandemic
00:32:53.900 like what role does that play in terms of like a turning point because i've seen a lot of people
00:32:58.840 talk about thrifting pre and post pandemic yeah that's a great question i think thrifting blew up
00:33:07.520 like right around the time of the pandemic like the past five years it kind of exploded
00:33:11.980 um i don't know if that's a function of just like economic instability fuels people to think
00:33:19.000 differently about their purchases i don't know if it's like i'm sure there's different factors
00:33:23.680 at play but i also think part of it is like the like explosive growth of tiktok because i think
00:33:29.800 there's like a huge thrifting community on tiktok gen z and sharing these like hauls and like look
00:33:35.100 what i and it's hard not to watch them it's like what did you find at the thrift store because
00:33:38.860 you're kind of getting that secondhand high of like when you go to a thrift store and you find
00:33:41.960 something special. I think that's definitely played a role. Totally. I also think it's just
00:33:46.980 kind of notable too for millennials who are looking at Gen Z, like finding clothing that
00:33:52.460 was from our years and thinking of it as vintage. Yeah. And there are feelings that come along with
00:33:59.680 that, like thinking about a going out top as vintage. The other thing that I was thinking
00:34:05.840 about, and I don't think it has anything to do with the pandemic per se, just that like time
00:34:10.900 past. A lot of times when I watch Rush Talk videos and post those on my Instagram, people
00:34:19.500 remark to me in the comments or in my DMs how odd it is to see these young women who are obsessed 0.65
00:34:29.640 with expensive brand name things, some things that are like golden goose shoes, right? So 0.67
00:34:37.040 shoes that cost more than $500 a pair and then also I got my jewelry at Amazon right like don't
00:34:44.660 even know what which Amazon store because it's probably called like 1922 KKG or something you
00:34:50.980 know what I mean like they don't know what it's called but then adding in for class or for like
00:34:56.880 some sort of like differentiation like my grandma's ring and there's just flattening that I think is
00:35:04.820 difficult to conceive of for people for us that are older that like that's not weird to them it's
00:35:11.200 not weird to have fashion and pair it with vintage whereas i think like millennials especially older
00:35:17.660 millennials and gen x are like no your entire identity either needs to be abercrombie or all
00:35:24.460 grandpa's closet like that yeah you have to choose one yeah yeah that is fascinating that is a good
00:35:31.140 point because as much as you know thrifting has become very popular gen z gen z also consumes a
00:35:36.420 ton of fast fashion um and even though they cite you know part of the reason they thrift is for
00:35:40.880 environmental reasons but then obviously they're so there are trade-offs obviously you're spending
00:35:45.500 power when you're when you're young is different um so i think that is part of it but yeah the the
00:35:51.100 branding obsession i think a lot of gen z is really into brand names um specific brand names
00:35:56.960 Like when they and maybe that was always the case. But yeah, it does feel like there is this unique mix of like as long as they have this one brand name item mixed in with everything else, then they're signaling, oh, I'm I'm I'm trendy. I'm with it. But I don't need everything to be like special or or expensive. I don't know.
00:36:15.020 Yeah. Well, and then there's also the thing that I think has been around for a long time, which is this idea that, like, you should always have a new outfit. Like, when I was, like, all I wanted was to, like, always have a new outfit. And fast fashion facilitates that, but so does thrifting.
00:36:31.240 just an abundance of clothing in your closet and you can combine those two in ways that like
00:36:39.320 make you feel like you have an abundant store of clothing to choose from whereas now and i think
00:36:46.440 this happens as you age for many people like i want fewer clothes i want to not choose i want
00:36:53.620 smaller closet and so yeah i think like one thing that i think we're arriving at is that
00:37:00.820 a lot of our feelings about why thrifting sucks are actually just like developing feelings about
00:37:06.880 clothes yeah that makes sense like having more of a a particular or more of a specific way that
00:37:14.240 you view clothing and how you how you acquire clothing and what each individual piece means
00:37:18.460 or doesn't mean yeah or feeling the contradictions too of clothing like what it means to to want
00:37:24.500 to be on trend versus classical items but then also like not wanting to spend so much money on
00:37:32.500 clothes but then not wanting to participate in fast fashion like they really just come into
00:37:39.140 conflict in ways that are difficult to unravel yeah okay we have a wild card question i can't
00:37:46.620 wait to see what we come up with as the answer this comes from ally and it's about an experience
00:37:52.440 of in-person shopping. At my local Goodwill outlets, the bins, there are usually one to two
00:37:58.460 groups of rowdy young men, maybe 18 to 21, who sprint around the store digging through the bins
00:38:04.440 of clothing and goods. They seem to arrive together and they're on a mission. They dominate the space
00:38:10.240 and they're the first to line up when the workers release new bins. I can't tell what they're looking
00:38:15.280 for, but they pile up their carts high and I always wonder what they're up to. Is this a part
00:38:20.440 of an online selling network do they have a boss are they a collective p.s i'm also jealous of their
00:38:27.120 sheer strength digging through the bins requires muscle they have clear advantage the stronger you
00:38:32.400 are the more you can thrift okay we talked at the before we recorded that neither of us know
00:38:39.060 the exact answer to this question we do not know who the like the hordes of men are but do you have
00:38:45.660 a working theory do you have an idea of who these men could be yeah i think i think it's possible
00:38:52.500 they're making content right that's like what i can oh that's like my quickest solution and i
00:38:58.760 don't know if it's like look at the crazy thing we found or like how to take on i did search a
00:39:03.960 little bit for this and it wasn't i didn't find much um so i don't know i i imagine that they're
00:39:10.580 they're somehow making content about searching through the goodwill bins which are like
00:39:14.480 a beast of their own to figure out how to how to tackle i think yes i love that when i heard
00:39:21.060 this scenario i thought okay this is how they're making money when i should have put on my content
00:39:26.560 making brain to think like oh yes this is like incredible content for someone right like it
00:39:31.520 could be i mean we did this sort of thing like this we just did it for like parties right you're
00:39:36.540 like find the weirdest thing that you possibly can in the goodwill bin right and then wear it
00:39:41.740 to this party like there's so many possibilities but they could also be reselling like they could
00:39:46.680 be finding unique cool stuff and then whatever they don't actually use they just re-donate to
00:39:53.740 goodwill right yeah absolutely they definitely could be reselling and just looking hoping they're
00:39:58.900 gonna get you know one thing that's a big i don't know a big a big sell i don't know yeah
00:40:04.760 and i will say that the people who um come to the the rummage sale on the island are all dudes
00:40:11.220 really yeah like at least the ones that i've seen like most visibly like sorting through stuff and
00:40:17.600 that sort of thing can you tell if they're shopping for themselves or if they're shopping
00:40:21.280 to to resell stuff i mean they looked cool like like it looked they looked like they would wear
00:40:27.440 some of the fines that they got but then i think also i love that she notes that like this is an
00:40:34.540 incredibly physical activity yeah so you need like robust strapping young men in order to get to like
00:40:41.200 the really good stuff to sort through. So, yeah, I think I think it's probably a mix of content and
00:40:47.500 like also just like fucking around with your friends. Like that was something that my friends 0.96
00:40:51.260 and I would do. We'd go to the mall or we'd go to the thrift store. Yeah, absolutely. And I think
00:40:57.500 the Goodwill bins specifically are a little bit of like a free for all. Like people are just really
00:41:01.520 kind of. So, yeah, that would make sense to you just messing around. Do they have a boss? Are
00:41:07.460 a collective yeah just content making just i really want to know where this person is like
00:41:13.260 where geographically this is happening and then maybe we will be able to like do some like
00:41:18.180 research to figure out um yeah okay the last question which i think will set us up to talk
00:41:23.000 a little bit more about the future of thrifting too is about just how difficult it is right now
00:41:28.580 to get rid of stuff i know we're talking about the abundance of thrifting but how hard it is
00:41:33.240 to get rid of other stuff including clothes and this comes from allison why is it so hard to get
00:41:39.140 rid of perfectly good possessions whether you're trying to sell the stuff or just give it away
00:41:43.060 it can turn into a part-time job just to unload the things you don't want and as a middle-class
00:41:47.540 woman who grew up clipping coupons and mending holes in clothes i feel way too guilty to throw
00:41:52.020 perfectly good stuff in the trash all right i think it's actually easy to get rid of stuff
00:41:58.800 if you live in a place with a stoop culture or with a like pickup culture so on my island if
00:42:05.960 you post free pile if you put it on next door people will come and get stuff almost always
00:42:11.720 in new york city if i put something on the stoop be gone within 10 minutes yeah i i agree if i want
00:42:19.800 to get rid of something for free it's not i don't find it to be difficult um you know if i list
00:42:24.440 something at facebook marketplace and i usually i get a response um i mean i think as far as like
00:42:30.460 dropping it off at thrift stores that don't want to take it or you try to you know go to like
00:42:34.720 buffalo exchange and get money for your clothes and they won't pay for them um i think it just
00:42:39.400 comes down to the fact that we have so much stuff it's like really hard to appreciate how much
00:42:44.120 overconsumption now versus uh you know the 20th century it's just like people just used to have
00:42:50.600 so many less things. So there were just fewer things we're trying to get rid of. Now, so many
00:42:54.940 of us have so much stuff. There's just literally not enough places for it to go. Yeah. And enough
00:43:01.480 there's like as high of a demand as there is for thrifting. There's either not there's just not
00:43:06.180 the infrastructure, I think, or the resale market isn't quite built out enough to handle all of the
00:43:11.340 stuff that we are actively trying to get rid of. And I think remodel culture really feeds this
00:43:16.980 to some extent um the idea that you should be refreshing your home refreshing your wardrobe
00:43:22.440 that everything should be new and like i think there's there's always some tension here with like
00:43:29.020 middle class people's idea that like oh this used shabby worn sofa someone should want this
00:43:37.660 i don't want it but someone else should want it yeah instead instead of thinking about like
00:43:44.380 even if someone has less money they want new nice things too right like and it's even with
00:43:51.080 furniture it's a lot easier to buy a hundred dollar couch on amazon than to buy a hundred
00:43:56.980 dollar couch that's covered in cat hair on facebook marketplace that you have to
00:44:01.300 go pick up yourself yeah i'll say that one trick my mom used when dramatically downsizing
00:44:08.400 her home when she was moving out of the house that where she had lived for a long time 0.56
00:44:13.080 when she listed stuff on facebook marketplace she charged like five dollars because if you charge
00:44:19.920 something it makes the person much more likely to come up and get it like get it whereas if she was
00:44:26.480 just saying like it's free and someone would say oh i'll come get it then they just wouldn't come
00:44:30.620 get it oh interesting so it would create a lot more work for her to like try to find the next
00:44:35.940 person who said that they would want it so charging five dollars for my my little pony palace
00:44:42.540 meant that the person actually came and got it and wanted yeah yeah that totally makes sense
00:44:48.100 yeah i think i think you mentioned remodel culture i think that that really gets it like just
00:44:53.240 generally just the way that we think it's normal it's for the objects we buy to have less of a use
00:44:58.540 case in our own lives yeah time wise um i mean like you know literally again i i furniture i
00:45:05.560 think is a really relevant comparison where you know in the mid 20th century if you wanted a
00:45:10.220 cabinet you would like go to go somewhere and like pick something out or ask for it in your
00:45:14.860 dimensions it would often get custom made it would take maybe a month to get or more to get
00:45:20.220 delivered to you and so when you got that thing you kept it for just a really long time and you
00:45:26.100 know it's like why we see with our grandparents have had the same furniture for 50 years and but
00:45:30.720 now i can i can literally i expect if i want a new dresser i can get it in two days um yeah and
00:45:35.660 so it just kind of fuels this whole like i don't then i don't feel attached to it i don't feel as
00:45:39.980 committed to it i don't feel as i feel not bad about giving it away and getting a new thing and
00:45:44.460 i think it's the same thing with clothing yeah absolutely i will say that there are like if
00:45:49.200 you're willing to put in the labor there are places like you just have to kind of research
00:45:53.720 for like okay here's where a place would need a dresser or like all baby clothes and baby stuff
00:46:00.740 like there is a specific place in the town near me that accepts baby stuff whereas most thrift
00:46:05.240 stores do not because of there's all sorts of like safety regulation stuff about things like
00:46:10.640 car seats and that sort of thing and like if you feel whatever feelings about like goodwill and 1.00
00:46:17.500 resellers and all that sort of thing women's shelters are always looking for clothes that 0.98
00:46:22.420 go directly to people who need them most right and especially for things like higher end items 0.99
00:46:27.840 that you probably won't get anything in resale for them I'm talking about like the work clothes that
00:46:34.940 don't quite fit you that you bought in 2015 those are great to donate to a women's shelter because
00:46:40.380 they're always looking for professional wardrobes that don't just like go like in a big huge pile 0.53
00:46:46.680 it's more like oh it becomes this little shop where they can go and shop and pick out things
00:46:51.940 that they like because just because someone doesn't have as much money doesn't mean that
00:46:56.580 they don't still have preferences yeah absolutely and I think that's great advice if you're trying
00:47:01.140 to get rid of something to look for something in your area that is more specific not just like
00:47:06.280 we're going to drop off donations we're going to drop off this specific kind of item who needs
00:47:10.320 this yeah that's a that's a great way to to hope like at least give your stuff new life that's
00:47:15.540 that's valuable yeah and we also got a ton of questions were from people who were like
00:47:19.420 i think that middle class people are actually the ones getting these things on buy nothing groups
00:47:23.880 and i'm like who cares if this person's putting in the labor and they want this thing and they're
00:47:28.980 gonna use it like yeah what you care about is it's not yours anymore yeah absolutely yeah and i do
00:47:36.080 think there's this idea that like there's not enough stuff to go around so like but at the end
00:47:41.540 of the day there's so much stuff that people no longer want which is why so there there is enough
00:47:47.160 I mean, the quality is evolving of what those things are, but there is definitely like if we can avoid sending something to the landfill, it's a good thing.
00:47:55.860 What do you think thrifting is going to look like in 10 years?
00:47:59.580 I am a little scared for this.
00:48:01.340 I don't know.
00:48:02.060 I know, right?
00:48:03.100 Like there's no handmade items at all.
00:48:05.120 Like it's just like.
00:48:06.540 Yeah, I know.
00:48:08.060 It's I first started looking into this because I just went to the thrift store and I was like, nothing here feels like clothing.
00:48:14.200 Like everything felt like plastic, basically.
00:48:16.480 and that's dramatic but that is what i felt it was very different than you know my early
00:48:21.360 experiences with thrifting um is that going to continue i think certainly there the proliferation
00:48:27.360 of fast fashion means that that will always be a problem but i also think there are there is like
00:48:33.920 a push towards like quality and minimalism and more intentional purchases and i think there are
00:48:39.160 brands that are are popping up to meet that like there are small brands smaller brands that are
00:48:44.600 more sustainable they're making things with you know more natural fibers and and they might cost
00:48:49.540 a little bit more as they probably should because i should buy less so you know i think and those
00:48:55.180 those goods will be around and then i think eventually those goods will also end up in the
00:48:58.620 resale like you know at thrift stores in the resale market i think there will always be quality
00:49:02.080 goods go around there might be less um i don't know it's kind of scary though yeah no i see like
00:49:07.520 a continuing stratification basically right that like there will always be high quality
00:49:14.060 long lasting things that will be incredibly desirable on the resale market but the abundance
00:49:21.660 of the resale market i i think that it's going to be that abundance is going to be in cheaper
00:49:28.640 less interesting less sustainable stuff like the resale market is only going to expand
00:49:34.920 is it going to be things that people want is the question right and i think as long as fast fashion
00:49:41.240 is growing then that stuff is just going to continue um to populate a lot of the resale
00:49:47.240 market um so yeah well kelsey this has been both like super fun and also like weird and complicated
00:49:55.100 um thank you for working through these questions if anyone knows who these men are that are in
00:50:00.080 thrift store please write in let us know yes we need to know yes if you found their content we
00:50:07.080 want to see it um where can people find you on the internet if they want to find more from you
00:50:12.020 the best place is probably my author page on business insider um that's i'm i'm not the best
00:50:19.240 at self-promoting so business insider cal sublimus is my bottom line that's amazing i love it because
00:50:24.220 who will also like i don't no one wants to be on any of these other sites right now and like it's
00:50:29.800 weird to promote your stuff on instagram i get it you can follow me on instagram but it's not
00:50:33.960 it's not work so what's your primary posting strategy on instagram uh i post personal stuff
00:50:40.160 i also have a food an old food blog instagram from like 10 years ago at the end of that let's
00:50:44.840 have everyone hungry thinker you could find that i hardly ever post there anymore you just find
00:50:48.880 that from you just get like 100 followers yeah thank you again this has been a pleasure
00:50:55.340 thanks so much for listening to the culture study podcast be sure to subscribe wherever you get your
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00:52:20.040 You