There Are No Girls on the Internet - May 15, 2024


Brandy Mellville exploited girls. Does anyone care?

Topics
Campus Protests: A Surveillance and Harassment Nightmare Zuckerberg’s glow up; Bumble Fumble; Celebrity Digital Guillotine; Better Help gets busted – NEWS ROUNDUP

Episode Stats


Length

47 minutes

Words per minute

176.78

Word count

8,402

Sentence count

365

Harmful content

Misogyny

19

sentences flagged


Transcript

Transcript generated with Whisper (turbo).
Misogyny classifications generated with MilaNLProc/bert-base-uncased-ear-misogyny .
Topics generated with Qwen2.5-3B-Instruct.
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00:01:05.340 This isn't just about teenage girls 0.99
00:01:08.360 like in stores being exploited.
00:01:09.960 It's about exploitation on every level. 1.00
00:01:20.220 There Are No Girls on the Internet
00:01:21.640 is a production of iHeartRadio and Unbossed Creative.
00:01:27.080 I'm Bridget Todd, and this is There Are No Girls on the Internet.
00:01:33.440 Have you ever shopped at a Brandy Melville?
00:01:36.300 Okay, so the Brandy Melville look is just the right kind of fade on a vintage jacket,
00:01:42.000 or a t-shirt that fits in just the right kind of way. 0.77
00:01:45.180 She's California cool, effortless. 1.00
00:01:47.700 She also happens to be thin, white, and conventionally attractive. 0.72
00:01:52.980 So just who is Brandy Melville?
00:01:55.620 The shadowy, fast fashion chain was founded and run by Italian CEO Stefan Marchand.
00:02:01.040 And under his direction, Brandy Melville reached a kind of cult status with a certain subsection of teenage girls.
00:02:07.920 Even if you've never shopped there yourself, if you have a young woman or girl in your life, she's probably at least heard of it.
00:02:13.080 They once became known for their one-size-fits-most sizing.
00:02:17.040 And since HBO's new documentary, Brandy Mel Hell and the Cult of Fast Fashion, now more
00:02:23.420 of the company's toxic practices are coming to light.
00:02:26.740 I am Kate Taylor, and I'm a senior correspondent at Business Insider.
00:02:31.080 Kate's reporting, which you can read in the show notes, became the basis for the HBO documentary.
00:02:36.200 Her work uncovers the darker aspects of how businesses are run and who gets exploited
00:02:40.360 to make others rich.
00:02:42.040 I also happen to be kind of a super fan of Kate's writing.
00:02:45.640 Kate, I am so excited to be talking to you today.
00:02:48.540 I feel like anytime you drop a new piece, it goes straight in my group chat because I know it's going to be the kind of piece that we're talking about.
00:02:56.860 I'm like, I like I'm awaiting the docu version of the piece like that.
00:03:01.080 You are that kind of writer for me.
00:03:03.280 Thank you so much.
00:03:04.560 It's like amazing to hear.
00:03:05.660 It's such a I have such a cool job at Business Insider where it is a lot of like doing deep dives into whatever I'm super interested in.
00:03:15.020 And like it's often like I end up writing articles where I'm like, oh, I wish I could read an article about this.
00:03:20.840 And my editor is like, well, sounds like you have to report it out.
00:03:23.680 So a lot of your reporting is taking these like big, messy, sometimes like business or corporate stories and then synthesizing them down so your average person can really see like what's at stake or why they should even care, even about these stories that they might not even necessarily think they care about or think impacts them in any capacity.
00:03:43.420 How did you get into being that person who does that with these complicated stories?
00:03:47.260 My background is actually I was a business beat reporter on the retail and restaurant speed. So practically that meant doing a ton of business reporting on fast food chain. So I followed Subway really closely. I followed Starbucks really closely. I followed McDonald's really closely, like listening in on earnings calls, talking to executives.
00:04:06.960 And for all of these things, I found it to be really fascinating how these kind of wonky business decisions impacted the thousands and thousands of people who ate at the chains, who worked at the chains.
00:04:20.880 So that was kind of my introduction into journalism. And then going from there to being on our features and investigations team, it kind of continued to be like, OK, how can we take these stories and like make them important to someone who doesn't think of themselves as someone who like wants to read a business publication or who wants to kind of read something that might be a little bit dry in how it's presented sometimes.
00:04:44.580 This is exactly what I love about Kate's work.
00:04:49.100 She finds a story that is ostensibly a story about the way a business is being run
00:04:53.240 and drills down into what it says about us as a culture and why it matters.
00:04:57.640 Like back in 2015, when Starbucks announced that through their Race Together initiative,
00:05:02.520 they'd be encouraging their baristas to spark tough conversations about race
00:05:06.320 with customers just picking up their coffees.
00:05:08.800 And Kate was on it.
00:05:10.280 i remember the first story i read by you was about it i think it was when you were at entrepreneur
00:05:16.500 about starbucks they wanted to like have race conversations do you know what i'm talking about
00:05:22.360 yes that was one of like i was a couple years into entrepreneur then and like that was one of
00:05:27.760 the first articles where i was kind of like okay like there's more going on here like i want to
00:05:33.160 kind of like write about this conversation about this news instead of just writing about the news
00:05:37.620 because like this is wild and it was something that like was such a move that you saw a lot like
00:05:44.720 at that time this was in maybe 2014 2015 um I think that like from then to 2020 you saw this
00:05:53.200 a lot where it was businesses making announcements that they thought that would be good PR that then
00:05:58.740 like their in-store employees were like what are you doing like this is putting us in such
00:06:03.300 a strange position. Like, we don't have training to deal with this. Because Kate covers business,
00:06:09.800 a lot of her stories are unfortunately about wrongdoing, already marginalized people being
00:06:14.520 treated badly. And because some of the workplaces that she covers cater to women or young people,
00:06:19.980 companies like Brandy Melville or Nickelodeon, Kate's coverage became the docuseries Quiet on
00:06:24.960 the Set, uncovering workplace abuses at the Kids Entertainment Network. There's this idea that it
00:06:29.880 doesn't really matter what these companies' business practices look like because who cares?
00:06:34.580 They're just some company for teen girls. It's an attitude that lets businesses and the people 0.96
00:06:38.720 who run them get away with behaving badly in plain sight, but not on Kate's watch.
00:06:44.100 Something I see in your reporting these days is that a lot of the focus is on these things that
00:06:48.820 I think impact women or young people, these groups of people that I feel like are traditionally
00:06:55.920 marginalized both in society, but also in sort of business coverage. Do you think that stories like
00:07:01.560 the, you know, Brandy Melville story that you reported or the Nickelodeon story that you
00:07:05.940 reported, do you think that these issues sometimes skirt scrutiny because people assume there's
00:07:11.700 nothing serious going on there because it's about women or kids or young people, they're teens?
00:07:16.600 Completely. And I think that especially the Brandy Melville story, that was something where
00:07:21.300 these court cases had already been filed saying kind of these allegations that Brandy Melville
00:07:27.780 was incredibly racist. And you wouldn't have that happen at a major chain that had like, 0.80
00:07:36.340 I don't know, like an Adidas, a Nike, even like a chain that serves adult women, a J.Crew.
00:07:44.540 I think if those allegations had come out about a chain that didn't specifically cater to teenage
00:07:50.420 girls, they would have already been front page news. And it felt to me like this was overlooked
00:07:55.460 because it was a brand that was aimed at teenage girls and it was a ton of teenage girls who worked
00:08:01.200 there. So yeah, in that situation completely, I think that it's at some level, there is a
00:08:08.940 disconnect where people just aren't as aware of things. And like that talks to about who ends up
00:08:14.720 in journalism. Like, it is a lot of, like, older white men and older white women who, like, just
00:08:20.460 are not as plugged into things. And, like, that's how important stories don't get the investigations
00:08:26.120 that are worthy. And then I think that there is a level of dismissal where it's like, oh, well,
00:08:30.440 like, does this matter? Like, fast fashion is bad. We already know that. Like, is it worth
00:08:34.660 spending months looking into this specific chain? Who is John Galt? In the Ayn Rand novel Atlas
00:08:42.580 shrugged. Who is John Galt is a question repeated over and over again, and the quest to discover his
00:08:48.160 identity is at the core of the book. Galt is revealed to be an inventor who believes people
00:08:53.040 should be using their talents, minds, and gifts solely to benefit themselves and no one else.
00:08:57.920 It's kind of easy to see why this book has become something of a foundational text for libertarians,
00:09:02.500 and this reference is what sent Kate down the rabbit hole of investigating the retailer Brandy
00:09:07.460 Melville. So walk me through how the Brandy Melville piece came to be and like your interest
00:09:12.480 it in and your coverage in it. How did that start? It came about in kind of this very roundabout way
00:09:18.560 where I was talking to my friend who was my coworker at the time about how Randy Melville
00:09:24.540 had this kind of sub brand John Galt. And she was like, it's so weird that they like are kind of
00:09:32.200 making this weird libertarian reference. Like, I was like, yeah, that is weird. Like, I wonder who
00:09:37.740 is running this? Who is the CEO? Is this owned by a larger company? I started Googling. I just
00:09:42.740 couldn't find the CEO. And that, as a retail reporter, I was like, this is so rare. You can
00:09:49.280 have one location and the CEO is giving as many interviews as he can get. It's very rare for any
00:09:56.680 CEO to avoid press instead of go after press. But in this situation, you have this super popular
00:10:01.940 brand with a big social media presence and the executives were really nowhere to be seen.
00:10:07.120 So from there, I kind of started looking up business filing, started looking up court documents.
00:10:11.780 And it was when I was looking up court documents to find the CEO's name that I came across these discrimination lawsuits where two former executives said we were pretty much forced out because we did not go along with the biased business practices.
00:10:27.700 And like, as I was reading through those lawsuits, I really was struck by how over the top and bizarre these instances of bias were, where these were things where I was like, this is truly mind blowing.
00:10:42.580 And I went to my editor, I was like, hey, like, these lawsuits are really, really wild.
00:10:48.360 Like, I think that there's a bigger story here.
00:10:50.200 I think that we should start talking to employees, former employees and asking them about their experiences.
00:10:55.800 And that was one where, like, almost every interview I had, it was just another level of disturbing material.
00:11:04.720 Let's take a quick break.
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00:13:02.280 And we're back.
00:13:04.660 The allegations against Brandi Melville
00:13:06.940 are a horrifying mix of surveillance and sexual control.
00:13:10.640 And even more horrifying that they all involve
00:13:12.800 very young girls, teenagers.
00:13:14.680 Teenagers were made to photograph themselves every day and send the photos to the store's owners.
00:13:20.440 The owners also kept a button on the register, alerting the staff when they should take a photo of a girl who was being rung up. 0.70
00:13:26.500 Sometimes girls shopping at the store would be offered a job on the spot if the owners liked the way they looked.
00:13:31.580 Black employees or employees who did not fit a very specific Brandy Melville look,
00:13:36.160 which is basically just white, thin, and conventionally attractive, were made to work in the back,
00:13:40.540 even if they had more retail experience.
00:13:42.960 Young staff were allowed to stay in company-owned apartments in Manhattan,
00:13:46.360 where men who had some association with the company would also be staying unbeknownst to them.
00:13:51.600 At least one young woman was sexually assaulted.
00:13:54.260 The lawsuits and then the claims made in them are wild.
00:13:58.720 You really demonstrate how wild some of these things that were happening at these stores are.
00:14:03.160 Things like the teenage employees taking photos of their breasts and feet to give to the adult male owner.
00:14:10.880 You know, having the button on the desk to be like, oh, get a photo of her.
00:14:15.320 The thing that you reported about how if the teenage employees changed in front of the adult male owners, they knew that that meant they could get raises.
00:14:25.260 And if they went to the bathroom to change in private, that was a no-no.
00:14:27.820 Like, all of these allegations are wild.
00:14:30.820 But I feel like on its face, it's also just like a workplace discrimination and like workplace sexual misconduct story.
00:14:38.240 So like when you were reporting this, like how did these issues play out?
00:14:42.480 For me, it kind of played out like where it goes for me like, OK, we have these really wild stories.
00:14:48.200 Like what are the patterns you see here and like what are the patterns that are actually illegal?
00:14:53.380 So the patterns where it's like things almost fall into buckets where you have things that were normalized to the employees where they're like, OK, everyone got hired based on a photo and their Instagram.
00:15:04.620 And then kind of taking that and then being like, who was getting hired? It was definitely we could see like, yeah, the white thin girls were getting hired and paid more while Latina woman, black woman were being put in the stock room and being paid less.
00:15:22.960 And like going from that to talking to managers and them being like, yes, this was not something that was like an accident or something that was hidden at all.
00:15:31.820 Like this was very explicit where they would see someone who fit the brandy look and they'd be like, hire her, pay her this much.
00:15:40.060 So that was kind of how I moved from that.
00:15:43.980 And then like in each conversation, just kind of looking, I have this massive spreadsheet that like had all the interviews I did.
00:15:50.600 I spoke with more than 30 current and former employees and kind of like just put like the
00:15:56.220 big summary, but then the checks like, did this person experience or see racism happening at
00:16:01.260 work? Did this person feel like they were sexually exploited? Like, what were their other concerns
00:16:06.160 about Brandy Melville? And kind of just like tallying up how many people said they saw
00:16:10.720 certain behaviors and certain practices. A lot of the people that you talked to for the piece
00:16:16.020 were probably young women and girls, right?
00:16:18.320 Like people who worked there.
00:16:19.880 Do you see them as whistleblowers?
00:16:22.840 I completely see them as whistleblowers.
00:16:24.960 And it was not something that was easy
00:16:26.420 for a lot of them to do.
00:16:28.180 Most people want to remain anonymous.
00:16:30.020 A lot of people are really worried
00:16:31.320 about what the repercussions might be.
00:16:33.400 And even like I had some of my sources email me
00:16:36.620 after the documentary came out
00:16:38.360 and they were like, hey, like I'm really like,
00:16:40.720 love how the documentary came out.
00:16:42.340 Like I was just too afraid to go on camera for this
00:16:45.880 because I didn't want to risk my career.
00:16:48.860 I didn't want these executives to kind of come after me.
00:16:52.060 And I think that for them,
00:16:52.920 there's still this fear that that could happen.
00:16:55.400 The director told me, she kind of was like,
00:16:58.960 this was harder to get people to go on the record for
00:17:01.100 than stories I've done about refugee camps
00:17:03.820 or like war crimes.
00:17:04.820 This is something that was just so, so scary
00:17:07.680 for people to talk about.
00:17:09.760 And I think the fact that we're talking about young people,
00:17:13.580 it also, I don't know,
00:17:15.420 there's something to that that it probably is really scary to go up against this massive machine
00:17:21.820 that has in with intention made it difficult to go after them that also really becomes more
00:17:28.720 powerful by being this big brand that every girl wants to be part of of course you want to work for
00:17:33.720 brandy melville like it's the coolest job you could have it really takes some guts to go up
00:17:39.620 against that yes and like for these girls now young women like it's not just your job it's your
00:17:46.860 entire identity like you've built this online identity doing this all of your friends work
00:17:51.440 there a lot of these girls got kind of a foot in the door in the fashion industry and a lot of them
00:17:57.380 are like doing really cool things in fashion now where they kind of like feel and I think that this
00:18:02.140 is common for a lot of young people who experience workplace discrimination or sexual harassment in
00:18:07.620 the workplace, like you almost feel like you don't want to say something bad because you attribute
00:18:12.400 all of your successes to the person who victimized you in some ways. So you feel like very torn and
00:18:18.780 like, yeah, I think that that's something that's really, really hard for a lot of these young
00:18:23.520 women to kind of grapple with like, oh, but like, is my success now tied to Brandy Melville? Like,
00:18:30.200 do I owe them? Not everyone feels that way, obviously, but I think that when people are
00:18:35.280 thinking about building their career. They don't want to kind of, yeah, you don't want to piss off
00:18:41.700 the extremely powerful middle-aged executive who gave you your first job at age 14.
00:18:51.380 That's so sad. And I guess even for young people who didn't work for Brandy Melville,
00:18:57.860 but bought the clothes, followed the Instagram, maybe modeled the way that they present online
00:19:02.660 because of the Instagram, I guess I see this in some ways as a story about the power of stoking
00:19:09.220 a particular kind of like anxiety or need in young people using social media and how that can make
00:19:15.640 bad men very wealthy. Do you see this, the rise of Brandy Melville as a story about the rise of
00:19:22.340 like social media and its impact on youth? Oh, totally. I think that it is in some ways,
00:19:28.220 like if this wasn't such a horrific place to work, like it's a huge success story in using social
00:19:33.760 media to create incredible buzz around a brand. And I think that part of the way that they did
00:19:38.940 that was by giving a lot of the control over to teenagers themselves, where like people can look
00:19:44.420 at these photos, especially the ones like in peak Tumblr era, like five, 10 years ago, where it's
00:19:50.740 like, okay, you can tell, I think that like teenage girls are the ones taking these photos. And it
00:19:56.180 feels like photos of their friends where people who are potential customers see that and like
00:20:01.160 it feels like oh this is an exclusive friend group that I want to get into that I want to
00:20:05.160 follow along with versus feeling like a commercial or like a model in a catalog um and it just
00:20:12.500 completely transfers like it translates so much better to social media than I think these more
00:20:18.720 traditional kind of catalog style photo shoots do. Say what you will about Brandy Melville but
00:20:25.660 their Instagram is on point.
00:20:27.880 The photos kind of feel like
00:20:29.100 riding around in your friend's backseat,
00:20:31.220 blasting music with the windows open
00:20:32.840 during a warm summer night.
00:20:34.320 They really capture something authentic
00:20:35.860 about what it was like to be a teen girl.
00:20:37.880 And that's probably because the photos
00:20:39.320 are taken by teen girls. 1.00
00:20:41.140 Brandi Melville used teen retail staff 1.00
00:20:43.060 to fill roles typically filled
00:20:44.500 by creative professionals,
00:20:45.980 social media, photography, styling,
00:20:47.940 fashion, and trend research.
00:20:49.520 Sometimes the higher-ups would literally
00:20:51.020 take the shirt off of a staffer's back
00:20:52.780 to sell a version of it in the store.
00:20:55.360 Now, on its face, the idea of teen girls being the creative force behind a brand that is marketed to other teen girls makes a lot of sense.
00:21:02.220 The only problem is, despite doing the work of creative professionals, the staff doing this work were not being paid like creative professionals.
00:21:09.960 In the documentary, it just feels like, in a kind of way, more exploitation because these girls are, like, doing the work of a social media manager or a creative director and, like, not being paid for it.
00:21:20.780 they're being paid in like vibes and like, oh, you got to be featured on our Instagram. Don't
00:21:25.660 you feel cool? It's like, well, that's actually a job that is compensated via money. It's like,
00:21:32.540 I mean, it's one of those things where it's like, oh, wow, like they're really like, from what I've
00:21:37.600 heard, like they were able to achieve a lot of financial success. And it's like, yeah, obviously
00:21:41.720 it's going to cost less if you are getting a 17 year old to kind of pick these designs and you're
00:21:48.660 paying her under $20 an hour versus like paying someone a salary who has gone to actually gone
00:21:56.540 to school for this. And yeah, it's something where like it's by believing in the kind of
00:22:02.760 ability of these teenage girls to track trends, to like know what's cool. Like they were able to
00:22:09.760 like both have their finger on the pulse, but also to like save a ton of money and really exploit
00:22:14.560 these teenage employees because like, yes, like the photographers, the people who are kind of
00:22:20.760 determining the fashion, the people who are modeling for this should have been paid much
00:22:25.620 more than what they were paid. Yeah. It's easy to have record profits when you're not paying people
00:22:32.220 and you're just like exploiting them. Yes. It's really like, and it's something that I do think
00:22:39.200 Like thinking about Brandy Melville versus like Rookie magazine 10 years ago, it's almost to me two sides of the same coin where like Rookie was a place that was also very much run by teenage girls, like around what teenage girls understood was cool.
00:22:53.820 But that was for teenage girls. Like it wasn't like there was some shady middle aged Italian man profiting off of that.
00:23:01.240 And I think that Brandy Melville, what makes it really disturbing to me is that this is kind of both you have this small group of male executives who are profiting off of these teenage girls, kind of their brilliance.
00:23:16.520 And like, but also like the grossest part of being a teenage girl, like to feel like there's only one way to be attractive, to feel like there's only a certain image, a certain body size that is going to make you popular and make you cool.
00:23:31.820 And I think that it's almost like these really toxic ideas about popularity in high school, like basically writ large and like is the brand DNA for this chain.
00:23:42.920 Yeah. And it's like they say that's not you or I gleaning that. That's like the owner explicitly saying we want thin, white, pretty girls wearing our garments. Like like we want those are who we want shopping in the store. That's who we want working at the store. That's who we want on the Instagram. It's like explicit.
00:24:03.160 Yes. Yeah. Like I feel like now most fashion retailers, even if there is some subtext,
00:24:09.080 like that's what they want. Like, no, we have executives at Brady Melville who told me,
00:24:13.360 no, this was our explicit like word for word plan. Like we do not want people who do not fit
00:24:19.200 this image shopping at or working at the stores. And if they do, like we want to very actively
00:24:25.220 exclude them. And if you don't, your job is basically on the line.
00:24:29.460 in the documentary they show a scene where one of the stores even has like skinny doors where you
00:24:36.380 have to sort of turn to physically enter the door which i had never heard before i was like oh my
00:24:42.180 god they're they're very serious about who they want in these stores like literally it's wild and
00:24:49.300 like that it was like a meme online for a while where it was like all these like tiny little
00:24:53.680 space. And it's like, must be this small to like fit into Brandy Melville. Like it's the one size
00:24:59.200 thing is so kind of well known that it's become a meme in its own right. And like, when I started
00:25:05.140 looking into this, even that I was shocked that this was how her brain was functioning and that
00:25:11.000 people were okay with it. So I haven't been a teenage girl for a very long time, but I remember
00:25:15.480 my adolescence very well. It's still, I think for a lot of us, like it's something that we carry
00:25:20.020 around. In some ways, I still feel like I'm 15-year-old Bridget, even though I'm an adult.
00:25:25.720 And so when I was growing up, I remember that what made you cool was to sort of stand out,
00:25:31.720 to be different. That was what was cool when I was growing up. And I wonder if social media
00:25:38.020 has kind of led to the opposite, where what's cool is to sort of fit in and sort of all look
00:25:44.720 the same all have this like very sort of similar aesthetic and i wonder if maybe brandy melville
00:25:51.440 was just sort of like taking advantage of that that like right now it's cool to all have this 0.52
00:25:57.200 like california girl look for teen girls let's really sell that back to them in an aggressive
00:26:03.280 way via social media i think it's almost two competing urges where it's like i i wonder because
00:26:11.020 there has been so much movement with the next generation with Gen Z to kind of be like, okay,
00:26:17.380 we want to have more diversity in fashion. We want to have more size diversity. We want more
00:26:23.160 racial diversity, but then also like Brady Melville is super popular. I think that Brandy
00:26:29.260 was able to keep an eye on these trends while also making people kind of feel like, okay,
00:26:35.780 you're fitting in but it has these little flashes of being able to be like okay this is this is
00:26:41.740 special where like they along with the really California cool thing they'll have times where
00:26:45.600 they do a lot of vintage inspired stuff which I feel like vintage is kind of the um yeah for me
00:26:52.900 in high school like if you're someone who has like cool vintage stuff like oh you're putting more
00:26:56.960 time into this like you know you're cool in a different way than like the people who are
00:27:01.260 wearing Abercrombie or Hollister. And I think that brandy kind of is trying to straddle both
00:27:08.000 of those sides where it's like, you have the very preppy, the California, those kinds of looks. And
00:27:14.480 then on the other side, you also have, oh, like this is as if you went to a vintage store yourself,
00:27:20.260 but no, it's actually just been screened by a 17 year old living in Santa Monica who
00:27:26.040 got the boss's credit card and got to like take a day going to thrift shops.
00:27:32.100 Wow. So for folks who, this is actually a great question. For folks who don't know,
00:27:35.560 how would you describe the Brandy Melville style, the look?
00:27:39.600 I think that the Brandy Melville look, it keeps evolving. And that's something that
00:27:43.960 they have been able to continue doing. I think for a long time, it was very California, cool,
00:27:51.240 casual, like lots of oversized. And then it's evolved to be a bit more vintage. It definitely
00:27:58.780 was going through very much like a preppy phase for a while but they have a lot of just like
00:28:03.320 basics where like the little um kind of white tank tops um the short shorts right now how I
00:28:12.080 think of their stuff is like very like a little bit timeless a little bit 90s um and it it feels
00:28:20.780 like it feels like it's something that you can look at and be like oh this is just these little
00:28:27.020 touches that even me thinking back to when I was in high school I could imagine like a popular just
00:28:34.320 like tiny tiny cheerleader style girl like wearing and me being like oh I couldn't wear that like I'm
00:28:41.160 too big like I'm too awkward like I just I couldn't pull that off I feel I feel the exact same way
00:28:47.660 isn't it funny how they're able to like me I'm an adult woman and they're still able to signal to me
00:28:53.640 somebody who has not been in high school for a very long time exactly what you just said that 0.98
00:28:57.760 like oh this is what the pretty popular blonde skinny girl wears you're you would never be able 0.85
00:29:02.380 to pull this off she pulls it off like and like they're able to like evoke that so well 1.00
00:29:07.560 i know like there weren't even cheerleaders in my high school i don't know why i said that
00:29:11.900 like i went to an all girls catholic school we didn't have cheerleaders we all were the same
00:29:20.140 thing and yet i know exactly what they are tapping into like they are very good yes it's this like
00:29:26.780 very delicate kind of femininity that like feels i think to a lot of people like oh like i i can't
00:29:34.180 i can't do that or like oh i want to achieve that but like i'll never feel quite right um it was i
00:29:39.740 actually while reporting this story i went into a brady bellville because we were with our
00:29:43.560 photographer um and i was like okay we have to like get photos for the article like we don't
00:29:49.220 want to like we wanted to kind of go into the flagship and see if we could see some of the
00:29:52.740 things the girls talked about to like corroborate certain things to be like okay yes like there's 0.69
00:29:57.940 where they push the button um when they see girls that they want to hire and like I tried on the
00:30:03.540 clothes and it was just like it was a very kind of out-of-body experience to be like yeah like I am
00:30:10.220 kind of like I am a straight-sized woman I kind of like I fit into most clothes I can find clothes
00:30:15.980 that fit me in most stores and I was like there's no way that I could like go in public wearing this
00:30:20.760 no it's that one size fits most is really yeah it's oh it's so wild but you're right it's almost
00:30:29.060 like a meme at this point yeah yeah it's really really wild it also just made me feel like I'm
00:30:34.680 32 I was like I feel so old right now in this store the only time I've ever gone into a Brandy
00:30:41.460 had the exact same experience and I also was like watching reading your piece and watching
00:30:47.780 the documentary I was like oh I see what that was now I've only gone into one and I was like I feel
00:30:52.340 like the people working here don't want to help me and now I'm like oh they probably had zero
00:30:57.560 retail experience zero training because they were just hired from their Instagram yeah yeah it was
00:31:03.420 like so many other people who I talked with would be like it was so frustrating we would like find
00:31:07.900 someone who had retail experience and be like please can we hire her and they'd be like no
00:31:13.100 like she doesn't fit our image like I remember talking to one former employee and she's like we
00:31:17.560 would like we facetune this girl in the photo we sent because we're like she has experience she's
00:31:22.800 good with customer service like we just want her so we're gonna facetune her like so hopefully she
00:31:27.500 gets hired and like yeah imagine being like please just like let me hire someone competent 0.94
00:31:32.560 and the response is like, eh, like, I don't know, like, she's a couple pounds too happy.
00:31:38.360 Wow. And I mean, something that the documentary really lays out in a fascinating way is that
00:31:44.060 it's really this system where everybody is being exploited. The employees are being exploited. The
00:31:48.940 girls who buy the clothes are being exploited. The countries in the global South where, like, 1.00
00:31:52.780 the clothing ends up, like, they're pressured into taking these clothes once the West throws
00:31:56.660 them out because they're fast fashion, they fall apart, are being exploited. Do you see this as
00:32:00.840 all sort of linked like triggering the anxieties of these young girls uh and then making money on
00:32:06.720 clothing sales which in turn furthers the exploitation of these folks in the global south
00:32:10.100 like it just feels like one big system where we are all losing yes completely and i think that
00:32:17.540 that was something that in my original investigation i didn't get into as much but
00:32:21.100 eva horner the director of the documentary kind of i feel like she really made it her mission to
00:32:26.620 kind of take it the next step to say like this isn't just about this one fashion line like this
00:32:33.220 is it's like one link in this wider system of destruction and how it impacts all these people
00:32:40.100 um so I think that yeah I I really like appreciated that uh Eva the director took it there and was
00:32:47.500 willing to push things to the next step to be like this isn't just about teenage girls like
00:32:53.460 in-stores being exploited. It's about exploitation on every level.
00:32:59.200 More after a quick break.
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00:33:20.360 run a business and not thinking about podcasting think again more americans listen to podcasts
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00:33:46.700 844-844-IHEART to get started. That's 844-844-IHEART. If your bookshelf and your for you page are
00:33:53.680 equally important to your personality, welcome home. This is Prose Society, the weekly podcast
00:34:00.720 that's part book club, part group chat for thought daughters, pop culture obsessives,
00:34:05.040 and anyone who thinks Pride and Prejudice and Love Island deserve the same level of discourse.
00:34:09.940 I'm Eli Rallo, and every week we're connecting the dots between books,
00:34:13.240 the internet, and the conversations everyone can't stop having.
00:34:17.060 I'm going to have to look up this story. I'm obsessed, so obsessed.
00:34:20.640 From best-selling authors and your favorite book talk creators to the latest pop culture moments,
00:34:25.500 nothing is off the table. It's like if you can hide some real messages inside compelling
00:34:31.620 characters, then that is a Trojan horse. Whether you're looking for literary deep dives,
00:34:36.620 smart pop culture conversations, or a community of readers who love to think a little too much,
00:34:41.660 you're in the right place. Listen to Pro Society on the iHeartRadio app,
00:34:46.620 Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts. See you between the pages.
00:34:57.140 Let's get right back into it. If you were on the internet like I was in the aughts,
00:35:01.980 you probably remember what some people called hipster racism. I remember that time feeling
00:35:06.580 like the peak of people masking racism or sexism or fatphobia or other harmful attitudes
00:35:11.640 with memes or off-color jokes about women, Jewish people, Black people, and Thad people.
00:35:17.840 And that's really what I was reminded of when I saw some of the chatter happening between
00:35:22.080 staffers and Brandy Melville higher-ups in a company group chat. I know all too well how
00:35:28.140 this kind of thing can be used to normalize toxic attitudes and ideologies under the guise of,
00:35:33.060 it's just a joke, don't be so sensitive. Something that you really flesh out with
00:35:38.220 like screenshots that are quite disturbing in the piece are this how these like senior staffers like
00:35:43.740 the highest level folks would be in these company group chats spreading anti-semitic and misogynistic
00:35:49.820 and racist and that phobic memes and language in these group texts and reading those something
00:35:55.760 about this reminded me of being online in the 2010s when like quote hipster racism was sort of
00:36:03.280 in vogue, like, oh, kind of like wink, wink, am I joking kind of racism? And I remember being
00:36:09.020 online at that time. And it was like, if you were bothered by that, you were sensitive,
00:36:12.900 you didn't get the joke, whatever. When in reality, I think looking back, what was actually
00:36:17.780 going on was that a generation of younger people was being introduced to these very dangerous ways
00:36:23.440 of thinking while masking it in like jokes and softness. And I'm sort of reminded of like the
00:36:29.540 John Galt iconography within Brandy Melville stores and things like that. Like, do you see this as kind
00:36:35.580 of introducing young people to a very specific social or political ideology when they're just
00:36:43.220 like shopping for jeans or whatever? They might not realize like, oh, like, what am I, what am I
00:36:47.300 actually being introduced here? I think yes, to a degree. I mean, I think it's so interesting what
00:36:53.980 you said about like growing up online with like the hipster racism like this to me feels so in
00:37:01.120 line with that like where all these things were like oh it's jokes but it was like I also very
00:37:07.280 much grew up online in that era and these were some of like the more horrific images and like
00:37:14.020 memes that I had seen where it was just like another level of anti-sevitism another level
00:37:19.600 of racism. Like, I mean, just really graphic images of pornography, even where it's something
00:37:28.360 you see, oh, like, what if we took 4chan? And then that was like the company group chat with
00:37:34.700 all these male executives. And I think that that kind of beyond being like, oh, this is obviously
00:37:41.580 offensive. It's just shocking to see like how that can be transferred over if that is normalized at
00:37:49.340 an organization. And if this is something that is kind of being passed on to the customer, I think
00:37:55.160 yes and no. I think honestly, the thing that feels more disturbing to me is that these were people
00:38:02.180 who were marketing and making their money off of teenage girls. And these thoughts weren't like,
00:38:07.220 it's not like they were making a shirt that has like an anti-Semitic joke on it or a racist joke
00:38:13.780 on it but this is kind of how they are thinking of a lot of their customers behind their backs
00:38:20.360 um where they're kind of like they're making jokes in these group chats about women that they
00:38:24.740 work with they're um kind of joking about all these different things and like that is it's a
00:38:31.300 different kind of disturbing than to like passing to pass that idea through the company it's like
00:38:38.180 the subterfuge, the like two-faced nature of it is gross in a different way.
00:38:45.260 Totally. And given all of this, you know, the anti-Semitism, the racism, the taking pictures
00:38:51.220 of young girls' feet and breasts, the allegations of sexual assault, like really dark stuff. The
00:38:56.540 thing that really I cannot even believe, when your piece is published, it's basically crickets.
00:39:02.160 They don't put out a statement. They turn off their comments for a little while. And that's basically it. And I guess thinking about this in context, like these days, I feel like particularly brands that that their customer base is young people.
00:39:19.000 I think a lot of young people really expect a level of social responsibility from their brands that they that they engage with. Why do you think that this was the reaction? The reaction was like nothing. Crickets.
00:39:29.940 I think that part of it is because people are like, well, Brady Melville, we know it's controversial because of the one size fits all thing.
00:39:38.480 So I think that people are like, oh, there's more criticism, but it's almost they've already sorted it into this bucket where they're like, oh, it's like, yeah, it's not perfect, but whatever.
00:39:50.100 Versus I think that if the same allegations came out about a company that was seen as really sustainable or socially good, it might have a different reaction.
00:39:59.940 I think that Brandy, it doubles down both behind the scenes and publicly as kind of not caring about this, of being politically correct is like the worst thing you can do, like that you shouldn't care about these things.
00:40:14.760 So I think that by doing that, it almost allowed them not to have as much of a reaction when this news came out.
00:40:22.440 But I still like that is something I'm still grappling with.
00:40:25.520 I've talked to kind of some teenagers
00:40:28.060 since the documentary came out
00:40:30.200 and some of them have been like,
00:40:31.080 oh, do you think that this is gonna hurt Brandy Melvo?
00:40:33.440 And I'm like, I don't know, like, what do you think?
00:40:35.680 Like, you probably have a better understanding
00:40:38.220 of how the actual customer base
00:40:39.800 is gonna respond than I do.
00:40:42.320 Huh, I wonder, are there ways in which that like
00:40:46.600 is a response to the current climate that we're in now
00:40:49.600 where we have all this like backlash to woke-ism
00:40:52.620 and all of that where it's like,
00:40:53.880 actually what's in vogue right now is not caring about marginalized people and making horrible
00:41:00.140 jokes about them behind their back. Yeah, it is. And I think that that is, like, kind of purposeful.
00:41:07.820 Like, it's something where it's like, oh, well, like, if you don't try to support marginalized
00:41:13.440 people, then you can be criticized for it, which to me is really, like, disturbing and wild and
00:41:19.380 shouldn't be that way, but it's almost by not trying at all and by making your identity not
00:41:24.940 trying, you are able to already have your kind of base of customers be people who are not
00:41:32.620 prioritizing this and are not prioritizing thinking about racism or thinking about
00:41:37.640 anti-Semitism or thinking about, oh, my money is funding something that maybe I don't personally
00:41:43.180 agree with. And it's kind of scary to think about that being really popular, like that sentiment
00:41:49.280 being something that you can make, that you can vote for via your dollars, that you can identify
00:41:56.760 with via what you wear. Like, that's just kind of disturbing to me that the way that that kind of
00:42:03.400 apathy can be packaged as really cool and popular. Yeah. And I think that even the response to the
00:42:09.640 documentary, I've seen TikToks kind of people being like, oh, like, I don't care. Like, Brandy
00:42:14.100 Melville, it's a great deal. So like, I'm not going to be watching this. And I mean, in my
00:42:18.780 experience, there are so many really lovely people who I spoke with who worked at Brandy
00:42:22.760 Melville. This is not me trying to say like, if you've ever shopped there, you're a bad person,
00:42:27.000 or if you've ever worked there, you're a bad person. There are so many people who I spoke
00:42:31.300 with who were whistleblowers in this, who worked there as teenagers, who I think care a lot about
00:42:37.540 these issues and have continued to kind of rededicate themselves to these issues. So I
00:42:42.820 don't want it to be like, I'm painting all these people with the same brush. But yeah, the response
00:42:48.080 of people being like, I refuse to care about this, and you cannot make me care about this,
00:42:53.540 has been pretty disturbing to me, especially when these are allegations of, I mean, screenshots of
00:43:00.100 incredibly racist, anti-Semitic things, allegations of sexual assault. This isn't something where it's
00:43:08.100 one person said something that could be perceived as offensive. Not that that should be ignored when
00:43:14.940 that happens. But this is, this is like a investigation. Like you don't have to trust me
00:43:21.080 and my thoughts on this. All of this is reported in court documents, in screenshots, in testimony
00:43:29.160 from many people. Like I understand people don't know me, they don't have to believe me, but
00:43:34.080 this is a ton of evidence that people kind of, it feels like they are willfully ignoring if they
00:43:40.300 continue to shop there what what do you like if somebody listening is like who cares about this
00:43:46.960 like what would you say to them I think that like think about I would ask them to think about what
00:43:52.420 matters to them in terms of their values and to just think about like does this square because
00:43:57.020 I think that most people even people who want to pretty publicly be like oh political correctness 0.98
00:44:01.620 doesn't matter um have people in their life that they care about whether that's young women whether 0.78
00:44:07.780 that's people who aren't white, like people who are Jewish. And if that is how you truly feel,
00:44:14.220 and if that are your values, then like, I would look and see like, do I want to spend my money
00:44:18.400 on a place that really very, very explicitly does not want to reckon with how it has treated people
00:44:27.240 who are not thin white women. And even in those situations, like those are often the women who
00:44:33.820 ended up being put in these really uncomfortable sexual situations and exploited in other ways.
00:44:39.300 Watch the documentary. You can read my original reporting in Business Insider. And if anyone is
00:44:44.300 listening to this who works for Brandy Melville now, like, wants to talk with me, feel free to
00:44:48.720 reach out. I am fascinated what the response has been like within the company. I haven't talked to
00:44:54.900 any current employees since the documentary came out. So I'm curious to hear how people are responding now.
00:45:03.820 We'll see you next time.
00:45:33.820 For more podcasts from iHeartRadio, check out the iHeartRadio app,
00:45:36.980 Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.
00:45:51.900 I survived nine months in captivity,
00:45:55.540 and I've spent my life exploring how other people survive
00:45:58.680 what should have destroyed them.
00:46:00.780 I'm Elizabeth Smart, and these are The Survivor Files.
00:46:04.380 Every week, I'm with survivors who live through the unthinkable, abducted, stalked, controlled, and nearly silenced.
00:46:11.900 These are stories about what it takes to make it out alive.
00:46:15.740 Listen to The Survivor Files with Elizabeth Smart on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.
00:46:23.380 If your bookshelf and your For You page are equally important to your personality, welcome home.
00:46:29.080 Pro Society is a weekly podcast that's part book club, part group chat for anyone who thinks Pride and Prejudice and Love Island deserve the same level of discourse.
00:46:37.740 Each week, we're connecting the dots between books, the internet, and pop culture with your favorite writers, book talk creators, and plenty of overthought opinions.
00:46:46.000 Yeah, I'm obsessed. I'm obsessed.
00:46:47.760 Listen to Pro Society on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.
00:46:53.160 I'm Nick Turturro. You probably know me from NYPD Blue, The Longest Yard, or Spike Lee's Black
00:46:59.060 Klansman. And on my new podcast, Delivering Happiness with Nick Turturro, I deliver pizza
00:47:03.560 to a new guest. I've shared a slice with everyone from Seth Rollins. What are you doing with my
00:47:08.240 belt? To Bill Burr. I don't think I've ever met somebody so exactly out of their mind as I am.
00:47:14.680 And now we even have more great guests coming up, including the great John Turturro. It's
00:47:19.560 with happiness. Delivering happiness.
00:47:21.520 And many, many more. Open your free
00:47:23.680 iHeartRadio app, search
00:47:25.220 Delivering Happiness with Nick Turturro, and
00:47:27.460 listen now. This is an iHeart Podcast.
00:47:30.820 Guaranteed human.